Kupang is capital of Nusa Tenggara Timur. Since colonial times it has been the centre of administration for the region. The Kupang area was originally ruled by local Helong kings. The Dutch made their first treaty with a Timorese king there in 1613. It was not until 1653 that the Dutch garrisoned the fort. The Dutch, like the Portuguese who had also been to Kupang earlier, came to trade in sandalwood. In those times sandalwood was plentiful.
In recent years the government of NTT has been developing the city’s west to relieve the congestion in the old area of town. This bustling city of over 135 thousand is growing rapidly. It has the feel of a busy country town in Australia. There is no tropical lushness. The dry limestone suburbs are dotted with lontar palms. Did you see the Welcome Monument on the way to the new market?
Kupang is a city with character. Some say it is like Tennant Creek with a beach. It’s hot and dusty even on the central business district streets. The main street is less than 50 metres from the sea of Kupang Bay. There are a few multistory buildings - mainly government offices and banks. There is a university near the airport. Local houses are of lontar wood slats with iron roofs or handmade bricks.
Jalan Siliwangi and Jalan Sudirman are the main streets of Kupang. Jalan Siliwangi runs parallel with the sea of Kupang Bay. Shops line the streets. They open at 8am and close at 12 noon for the tidur siang They open again at about 4pm and close at 8pm. All kinds of goods can be bought in the shops. Hardware, material, clothes, tapes, jewellery can all be found. Street sellers abound too, selling sunglasses, knives and assorted nik naks. There are a number of markets around town. Pasar Inpres and Pasar Oebaa near the Kristal Hotel are very busy. Pasar Oebobo in the new part of town called Wali Kota is big but not so busy.
All day the streets are alive with the heavy bass of the bemos’ sound systems. The melody and lyrics of popular songs are buried under bass that literally shakes one’s bones. The signs say that they can take 15 people but 20 seems to be more popular. Tap your coin on the roof or window or just yell ‘stop’ at the conductor to get off.
There are no nice beaches immediately in town. It appears as if Kupang has been placed on bare limestone rock right on the edge of the sea. Fishermen and boats can always be seen in the bay. Lasiana Beach 12 kilometres from Kupang is probably the best beach in town.
Looking for somewhere to stay and something to eat? Since Kupang reopened to tourism in 1987 many hotels of various quality have sprung up. Without doubt the Kristal is the best hotel in town. And for budget travellers the Hotel Fateleu is a good deal. There are many others. Hungry? Try out the Lima Jaya near the Terminal Bemo. The Karang Mas has a great view of Kupang Bay. The Restoran Palembang near the Flobamor Hotel [The Flob to regulars] offers terrific food and their fried chicken is tasty and cheap.
Questions / activities
1. Using a dictionary work out what Kupang’s motto means. 2. Familiarise yourself with the map of Kupang. Do the extra activities. 3. Find Tennant Creek (Northern Territory, Australia) with its latitude and longitude. 4. On the internet find web sites that have pictures for Tennant Creek. Compare these pictures with ones from Kupang (within this and other modules). 5. Find web sites for Kupang. Discuss what keywords you will use to find these sites. 6. As part of an Indonesian language directions theme, find your way around Kupang. Start at the Karang Mas Restaurant. What street is it on? Direct your friends to places on the map by naming the streets and using Indonesian directions. 7. Identify stereotypical elements in depictions of Timor and Indonesia, and discuss their bases.
